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Automotive Technicians make ( or should make ) extensive use of
multi-meters. Those useful tools have evolved from the slow and not so
accurate analogue types to the modern digital types we see today. They come
with different capabilities and options, some with automatic range
selection, some with manual, some even with memory capabilities. What type
one chooses to use is a personal preference, but if you need some guide
lines here is list of useful things to look for. |
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Useful multi-meter
features:
Aside from the "normal" measuring functions like
DC Volts, AC Volts, AC Amps, DC Amps, Resistance and so on here
are some other useful things that an Automotive multi-meter can ( should )
have.:
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Large 4 digit Display ( e.g. 20.98 V ) the more the better
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Capability to measure up to 20A ( at least 10A min.)
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Capability to measure Frequency (Hz)
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Capability to measure Capacitance ( mF )
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Capability to measure RPM ( engine RPM with additional
Pick-Up, or directly from the coil primary -1)
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Capability to display Minimum and Maximum measured values
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Capability to measure Temperature
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Some expensive ones even come with some oscilloscope
capabilities ( very handy but still pricey)
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Capability to connect to a PC ( useful for printing and
other tricks )

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Useful Conversions:
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Ignition Frequency into RPM - ( 120 / Number of Cylinders
x Frequency = RPM )
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Engine RPM into Ignition Frequency ( in Cycles per Second
) - ( Number of Cylinders / 120 x RPM = Frequency )
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Microseconds to Seconds - ( microseconds x 1000000 =
Seconds )
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Milliseconds to Seconds - ( milliseconds x 1000 = Seconds
)
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Seconds to milliseconds - ( seconds x 0.001 = milliseconds
)
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Seconds to microseconds ( seconds x 0.000001 =
microseconds )
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Frequency into Time - ( 1 / Frequency in Hz = Time in
seconds )
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Time into Frequency - ( 1 / Time in seconds = Frequency in
Hz )
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or ( 1000 / Time in milliseconds = Frequency in Hz )
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or ( 1000000 / Time in microseconds = Frequency in Hz )
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Note: 1000 Hz = 1 KHz ( one thousand Hertz = 1 kilohertz )
Analogue VS Digital
Despite some limitations our choice goes for the Digital ones, simply
because they offer much more in a single package!
Some limitations regarding use of Digital Multimeters for automotive
diagnostics:
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Due to the high impedance nature of their inputs, digital
multimeters DO NOT load the circuit under question. This is good, because
it will not damage the circuit, but IT IS BAD for some automotive
electrical jobs where we want to hunt down loose terminals or other
voltage drops! In other words, you may have 12v on a wire under test, but
when you connect a load to it, say an relay and it's still not working,
the problem may be a voltage drop which digital multimeter can only pick
up if you measure the whole circuit under load. e.g. the relay coil loads
the 12v line which will drop it's voltage if we have loose connections.
ONLY measure with all circuit components connected to avoid misleading.
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Due to their nature the digital multimeters tend to "skip"
some of the signal. An analogue multimeter will tremble it's needle
rapidly if the signal changes back and forth, but you'll get a clear
picture of the "range" of fluctuations. Say you measure an ABS wheel
sensor. The digital on other hand will give you some positive value and
the some negative value but because the "sample" it displays to you is not
synchronized you'll get inconsistent values which are meaningless. ( This
is not the case with Digital's that have "Min." & "Max." value
capabilities!)
Once you are aware of the above
limitations and proceed with care the Digital Multimeter should be you
choice of meter, in most cases anyway. |